GOODWILL AND OTHER INTANGIBLE ASSETS

12 Months Ended

Jun. 30, 2023

Goodwill and Intangible Assets Disclosure [Abstract]

As previously discussed in Note 5 - Business and Asset Acquisitions, in April 2023, the Company completed the TOM FORD Acquisition and recorded a non-amortizable intangible asset (trademark) of $2,578 million.

The trademark acquired in connection with the TOM FORD Acquisition is classified as level 3 in the fair value hierarchy. The fair value of the trademark was determined using an income approach, specifically the relief-from-royalty method. This method assumes that, in lieu of ownership, a third party would be willing to pay a royalty in order to obtain the rights to use the comparable asset. The significant assumptions used to estimate the fair value were revenue growth rates, terminal value, beauty royalty savings, the weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and royalty rates. The most significant unobservable input was the weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows.

Also as discussed in Note 5 - Business and Asset Acquisitions, in May 2021 the Company increased its investment in DECIEM, which resulted in the inclusion of additional goodwill of $1,296 million, amortizable intangible assets (customer lists) of $701 million with amortization periods of 7 years to 14 years, and non-amortizable intangible assets (trademarks) of $1,216 million. Goodwill associated with the acquisition is primarily attributable to the future revenue growth opportunities associated with sales growth in the skin care category, as well as the value associated with DECIEM's assembled workforce. As such, the goodwill has been allocated to the Company’s skin care product category. The goodwill recorded in connection with this acquisition is not deductible for tax purposes.

The intangible assets acquired in connection with the acquisition of DECIEM are classified as level 3 in the fair value hierarchy. The estimate of the fair values of the acquired amortizable intangible assets were determined using a multi-period excess earnings income approach by discounting the incremental after-tax cash flows over multiple periods. Fair value was determined under this approach by estimating future cash flows over multiple periods, as well as a terminal value, and discounting such cash flows at a rate of return that reflects the relative risk of the cash flows. The estimate of the fair values of the acquired intangible assets not subject to amortization were determined using an income approach, specifically the relief-from-royalty method. This method assumes that, in lieu of ownership, a third party would be willing to pay a royalty in order to obtain the rights to use the comparable asset.

Goodwill

The Company assigns goodwill of a reporting unit to the product categories in which that reporting unit operates at the time of acquisition. The following table presents goodwill by product category and the related change in the carrying amount:


(In millions)	Skin Care		Makeup		Fragrance		Hair Care		Total
Balance as of June 30, 2021
Goodwill	$	1,786	$	1,214	$	262	$	355	$	3,617
Accumulated impairments	(141)		(830)		(30)		—		(1,001)
	1,645		384		232		355		2,616

Goodwill measurement period adjustment	13		—		—		—		13

Translation and other adjustments, goodwill	(97)		(98)		(13)		(2)		(210)
Translation and other adjustments, accumulated impairments	3		98		1		—		102
	(81)		—		(12)		(2)		(95)

Balance as of June 30, 2022
Goodwill	1,702		1,116		249		353		3,420
Accumulated impairments	(138)		(732)		(29)		—		(899)
	1,564		384		220		353		2,521



Translation and other adjustments, goodwill	(38)		—		5		—		(33)
Translation and other adjustments, accumulated impairments	(1)		—		(1)		—		(2)
	(39)		—		4		—		(35)

Balance as of June 30, 2023
Goodwill	1,664		1,116		254		353		3,387
Accumulated impairments	(139)		(732)		(30)		—		(901)
	$	1,525	$	384	$	224	$	353	$	2,486

Other Intangible Assets

Other intangible assets primarily include trademarks and customer lists, as well as patents, and license arrangements resulting from or related to businesses and assets purchased by the Company. Indefinite-lived intangible assets (e.g., trademarks) are not subject to amortization and are assessed at least annually for impairment during the fiscal fourth quarter or more frequently if certain events or circumstances exist. Other intangible assets (e.g., customer lists) are amortized on a straight-line basis over their expected period of benefit, approximately 7 years to 18 years. Intangible assets related to license agreements were amortized on a straight-line basis over their useful lives based on the terms of the respective agreements. The costs incurred and expensed by the Company to extend or renew the term of acquired intangible assets during fiscal 2023 and 2022 were not material to the Company’s results of operations.

Other intangible assets consist of the following:


	June 30, 2023						June 30, 2022
(In millions)	Gross Carrying Value		Accumulated Amortization		Total Net Book Value		Gross Carrying Value		Accumulated Amortization		Total Net Book Value
Amortizable intangible assets:
Customer lists, license agreements and other	$	2,030	$	766	$	1,264	$	2,064	$	628	$	1,436


Non-amortizable intangible assets:
Trademarks					4,338						1,992
Total intangible assets					$	5,602					$	3,428

The aggregate amortization expense related to amortizable intangible assets for fiscal 2023, 2022 and 2021 was $145 million, $160 million and $110 million, respectively. The estimated aggregate amortization expense for each of the next five fiscal years is as follows:


	Fiscal
(In millions)	2024		2025		2026		2027		2028
Estimated aggregate amortization expense	$	146	$	146	$	146	$	129	$	104

Fiscal 2023 Impairment Analysis

For further policy information on the Company's policy relating to its impairment assessment of goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible assets, see Goodwill and Other Indefinite-lived Intangible Assets within Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies.

During the fiscal 2023 second quarter, given the lower-than-expected results in the overall business, the Company revised the internal forecasts relating to its Smashbox reporting unit. The Company concluded that the changes in circumstances in the reporting unit triggered the need for an interim impairment review of its trademark intangible asset. The remaining carrying value of the trademark intangible asset was not recoverable and the Company recorded an impairment charge of $21 million reducing the carrying value to zero.

During the fiscal 2023 second quarter, the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit experienced lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions and channels that continue to be impacted by the spread of COVID-19 variants, resurgence in cases, and the potential future impacts relating to the uncertainty of the duration and severity of COVID-19 impacting the financial performance of the reporting unit. In addition, due to macro-economic factors, Dr.Jart+ has experienced lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions. The Too Faced reporting unit experienced lower-than-expected results in key geographic regions and channels coupled with delays in future international expansion to areas that continue to be impacted by COVID-19. As a result, the Company revised the internal forecasts relating to its Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced reporting units. Additionally, there were increases in the weighted average cost of capital for both reporting units as compared to the prior year annual goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2022.

The Company concluded that the changes in circumstances in the reporting units, along with increases in the weighted average cost of capital, triggered the need for interim impairment reviews of their trademarks and goodwill. These changes in circumstances were also an indicator that the carrying amounts of Dr.Jart+’s and Too Faced’s long-lived assets, including customer lists, may not be recoverable. Accordingly, the Company performed interim impairment tests for the trademarks and a recoverability test for the long-lived assets as of November 30, 2022. The Company concluded that the carrying value of the trademark intangible assets exceeded their estimated fair values, which were determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows and recorded an impairment charge of $100 million for Dr.Jart+ and $86 million for Too Faced. The Company concluded that the carrying amounts of the long-lived assets were recoverable. After adjusting the carrying values of the trademarks, the Company completed interim quantitative impairment tests for goodwill. As the estimated fair value of the Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced reporting units were in excess of their carrying values, the Company concluded that the carrying amounts of the goodwill were recoverable and did not record a goodwill impairment charge related to these reporting units. The fair values of these reporting units were based upon an equal weighting of the income and market approaches, utilizing estimated cash flows and a terminal value, discounted at a rate of return that reflects the relative risk of the cash flows, as well as valuation multiples derived from comparable publicly traded companies that are applied to operating performance of the reporting units. The significant assumptions used in these approaches include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal values, weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows, comparable market multiples and royalty rates for trademarks. The most significant unobservable input used to estimate the fair values of the Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced trademark intangible assets was the weighted average cost of capital, which was 11% and 13%, respectively.

A summary of the impairment charges for the twelve months ended June 30, 2023 and the remaining trademark and goodwill carrying values as of June 30, 2023, for each reporting unit, are as follows:


			Impairment Charges					Carrying Value
(In millions)		Twelve Months Ended June 30, 2023				As of June 30, 2023
Reporting Unit	Geographic Region			Trademarks		Goodwill		Trademarks		Goodwill
Smashbox	The Americas			$	21	$	—	$	—	$	—
Dr.Jart+	Asia/Pacific			100		—		325		304
Too Faced	The Americas			86		—		186		13
Total				$	207	$	—	$	511	$	317

The impairment charges for the twelve months ended June 30, 2023 were reflected in the skin care product category for Dr.Jart+ and the makeup product category for Smashbox and Too Faced.

Fiscal 2022 Impairment Analysis

During the fiscal 2022 third quarter, given the lower-than-expected results from international expansion to areas that continue to be impacted by COVID-19, the Company made revisions to the internal forecasts relating to its GLAMGLOW reporting unit. The Company concluded that the changes in circumstances in the reporting unit triggered the need for an interim impairment review of its trademark intangible asset. The remaining carrying value of the trademark intangible asset was not recoverable and the Company recorded an impairment charge of $11 million reducing the carrying value to zero.

During the fiscal 2022 third quarter, given the lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions and channels for Dr.Jart+ that continue to be impacted by the spread of COVID-19 variants and resurgence in cases and the potential future impacts relating to the uncertainty of the duration and severity of COVID-19 impacting the financial performance of the brand, the lower than expected growth in key retail channels for DECIEM, and the lower than expected results from international expansion to areas that continue to be impacted by COVID-19 for Too Faced, the Company made revisions to the internal forecasts relating to its Dr.Jart+, DECIEM and Too Faced reporting units.

The Company concluded that the changes in circumstances in the reporting units triggered the need for interim impairment reviews of their trademarks and goodwill. These changes in circumstances were also an indicator that the carrying amounts of Dr.Jart+’s, DECIEM’s and Too Faced’s long-lived assets, including customer lists, may not be recoverable. Accordingly, the Company performed interim impairment tests for the trademarks and a recoverability test for the long-lived assets as of February 28, 2022. The Company concluded that the carrying amounts of the long-lived assets were recoverable. For the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit, the Company also concluded that the carrying value of the trademark intangible asset exceeded its estimated fair value, which was determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows, and recorded an impairment charge of $205 million. For the Too Faced and DECIEM reporting units, as the carrying values of the trademarks did not exceed their estimated fair values, which were determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows, the Company did not record impairment charges. The estimated fair values of Too Faced’s and DECIEM's trademarks exceeded their carrying values by 13% and 3%, respectively. For the Too Faced and DECIEM trademark intangible assets, if all other assumptions are held constant, an increase of 100 basis points and 50 basis points, respectively, in the weighted average cost of capital would result in an impairment charge. After adjusting the carrying values of the trademarks, the Company completed interim quantitative impairment tests for goodwill. As the estimated fair value of the Dr.Jart+, DECIEM and Too Faced reporting units were in excess of their carrying values, the Company concluded that the carrying amounts of the goodwill were recoverable and did not record a goodwill impairment charge related to these reporting units. The fair values of these reporting units were based upon an equal weighting of the income and market approaches, utilizing estimated cash flows and a terminal value, discounted at a rate of return that reflects the relative risk of the cash flows, as well as valuation multiples derived from comparable publicly traded companies that are applied to operating performance of the reporting units. The significant assumptions used in these approaches include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal values, weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and royalty rates for trademarks. The most significant unobservable input used to estimate the fair value of the Dr.Jart+ trademark intangible asset was the weighted average cost of capital, which was 10.5%.

Based on the Company’s annual goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2022, the Company determined that the carrying value of the Dr.Jart+ trademark exceeded its fair value. This determination was made based on updated internal forecasts. Given the lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions and channels that continued to be impacted by the spread of COVID-19 variants, the resurgence in cases, regional lockdowns and the potential future impacts relating to the uncertainty of the duration and severity of COVID-19 impacting the financial performance of the brand, the Company made revisions to the internal forecasts relating to the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit. These changes in circumstances were also indicators that the carrying amounts of their respective long-lived assets may not be recoverable. The Company concluded that the carrying value of the trademark intangible asset exceeded its estimated fair value, which was determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows, and recorded an impairment charge of $25 million. The Company concluded that the carrying amount of the long-lived assets were recoverable. After adjusting the carrying value of the trademark, the Company completed a quantitative impairment test for goodwill. As the estimated fair value of the reporting unit was in excess of its carrying value, the Company concluded that the carrying amount of the goodwill was recoverable and did not record a goodwill impairment charge related to the reporting unit. The fair value of the reporting unit was based upon an equal weighting of the income and market approaches, utilizing estimated cash flows and a terminal value, discounted at a rate of return that reflects the relative risk of the cash flows, as well as valuation multiples derived from comparable publicly traded companies that are applied to operating performance of the reporting units. The significant assumptions used in these approaches include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal values, weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and royalty rates for trademarks. The most significant unobservable input used to estimate the fair value of the trademark intangible asset was the weighted average cost of capital, which was 10.5%.

A summary of the trademark impairment charges for the three and twelve months ended June 30, 2022 and the remaining carrying values as of June 30, 2022, for each reporting unit, are as follows:


(In millions)		Impairment Charges		Carrying Value
Reporting Unit:	Geographic Region	Three Months Ended June 30, 2022			Twelve Months Ended June 30, 2022		As of June 30, 2022
GLAMGLOW	The Americas	$	—		$	11		$	—
Dr.Jart+	Asia/Pacific	25			230			428
Total		$	25		$	241		$	428

The impairment charges for the three and twelve months ended June 30, 2022 were reflected in the skin care product category.

Fiscal 2021 Impairment Analysis

During November 2020, given the actual and the estimate of the potential future impacts relating to the uncertainty of the duration and severity of COVID-19 impacting the Company and lower than expected results from geographic expansion, the Company made further revisions to the internal forecasts relating to its GLAMGLOW reporting unit. The Company concluded that the changes in circumstances in this reporting unit triggered the need for an interim impairment review of its trademark and goodwill. These changes in circumstances were also an indicator that the carrying amounts of GLAMGLOW's long-lived assets, including customer lists, may not be recoverable. Accordingly, the Company performed an interim impairment test for the trademark and a recoverability test for the long-lived assets as of November 30, 2020. The Company concluded that the carrying value of the trademark for GLAMGLOW exceeded its estimated fair value, which was determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows, and recorded an impairment charge of $21 million. In addition, the Company concluded that the carrying value of the GLAMGLOW customer lists intangible asset was fully impaired and recorded an impairment charge of $6 million. The fair value of all other long-lived assets of GLAMGLOW exceeded their carrying values and were not impaired as of November 30, 2020. After adjusting the carrying values of the trademark and customer lists intangible assets, the Company completed an interim quantitative impairment test for goodwill and recorded a goodwill impairment charge of $54 million, reducing the carrying value of goodwill for the GLAMGLOW reporting unit to zero. The fair value of the GLAMGLOW reporting unit was based upon an equal weighting of the income and market approaches, utilizing estimated cash flows and a terminal value, discounted at a rate of return that reflects the relative risk of the cash flows, as well as valuation multiples derived from comparable publicly traded companies that are applied to operating performance of the reporting unit.

Based on the Company’s annual goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2021, the Company determined that the carrying value of the GLAMGLOW and Smashbox trademarks exceeded their fair values. This determination was made based on updated internal forecasts, finalized and approved in June 2021, that reflected lower net sales growth projections due to a softer than expected retail environment for these brands, as well as the continued impacts relating to the uncertainty of the duration and severity of the COVID-19 pandemic. These changes in circumstances were also indicators that the carrying amounts of their respective long-lived assets may not be recoverable. The Company concluded that the carrying values of the trademarks exceeded their estimated fair values, which were determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows, and recorded impairment charges. The Company concluded that the carrying amounts of the long-lived assets were recoverable. The carrying values of the customer lists and goodwill relating to the GLAMGLOW and Smashbox reporting units were zero as of November 30, 2020 and June 30, 2020, respectively.

A summary of the impairment charges for the three and twelve months ended June 30, 2021 and the remaining trademark, customer lists and goodwill carrying values as of June 30, 2021, for each reporting unit, are as follows:


		Impairment Charges
(In millions)		Three Months Ended June 30, 2021						Twelve Months Ended June 30, 2021						Carrying Value as of June 30, 2021
Reporting Unit:	Product Category	Trademark		Customer Lists		Goodwill		Trademark		Customer Lists		Goodwill		Trademark		Customer Lists		Goodwill
GLAMGLOW	Skin care	$	25	$	—	$	—	$	46	$	6	$	54	$	11	$	—	$	—
Smashbox	Makeup	11		—		—		11		—		—		21		—		—
Total		$	36	$	—	$	—	$	57	$	6	$	54	$	32	$	—	$	—

The impairment charges for the three and twelve months ended June 30, 2021 were reflected in the Americas region.