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SEGMENT INFORMATION (Tables)
 9 Months Ended
Sep. 29, 2018
Segment Reporting [Abstract]  
Schedule of segment information
The table below presents certain information for our reportable segments and unallocated corporate expenses for the periods indicated.
 
Fiscal quarter ended
 
Three fiscal quarters ended
(dollars in thousands)
September 29,
2018
 
% of
Total Net Sales
 
September 30,
2017
 
% of
Total Net Sales
 
September 29,
2018
 
% of
Total Net Sales
 
September 30,
2017
 
% of
Total Net Sales
Net sales:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
U.S. Retail
$
459,101

 
49.7
%
 
$
453,843

 
47.9
%
 
$
1,244,863

 
52.4
%
 
$
1,209,143

 
50.9
%
U.S. Wholesale
338,963

 
36.7
%
 
369,577

 
39.0
%
 
829,272

 
34.9
%
 
879,842

 
37.1
%
International    
125,843

 
13.6
%
 
124,626

 
13.1
%
 
301,755

 
12.7
%
 
283,639

 
12.0
%
Total net sales
$
923,907

 
100.0
%
 
$
948,046

 
100.0
%
 
$
2,375,890

 
100.0
%
 
$
2,372,624

 
100.0
%
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Operating income (loss):
 
 
% of
Segment
Net Sales
 
 
 
% of
Segment
Net Sales
 
 
 
% of
Segment
Net Sales
 
 
 
% of
Segment
Net Sales
U.S. Retail(1)(5)
$
47,139

 
10.3
%
 
$
55,519

 
12.2
%
 
$
122,086

 
9.8
%
 
$
127,441

 
10.5
%
U.S. Wholesale(2)(5)
67,785

 
20.0
%
 
78,572

 
21.3
%
 
148,395

 
17.9
%
 
184,073

 
20.9
%
International(5)(6)
12,434

 
9.9
%
 
16,726

 
13.4
%
 
20,508

 
6.8
%
 
28,008

 
9.9
%
Corporate expenses(3)(4)
(23,801
)
 
 
 
(20,369
)
 
 
 
(70,152
)
 
 
 
(66,307
)
 
 
Total operating income
$
103,557

 
11.2
%
 
$
130,448

 
13.8
%
 
$
220,837

 
9.3
%
 
$
273,215

 
11.5
%

(1)
Includes insurance recoveries of approximately $0.4 million associated with storm-related store closures in 2017 for the three fiscal quarters ended September 29, 2018.
(2)
Includes approximately $12.8 million of charges related to a customer bankruptcy for the three fiscal quarters ended September 29, 2018.
(3)
Corporate expenses include expenses related to incentive compensation, stock-based compensation, executive management, severance and relocation, finance, office occupancy, information technology, certain legal fees, consulting fees, and audit fees.
(4)
Includes the following charges:
 
Fiscal quarter ended
 
Three fiscal quarters ended
(dollars in millions)
September 29,
2018
 
September 30,
2017
 
September 29,
2018
 
September 30,
2017
Acquisition contingency fair value adjustment
$
—

 
$
(3.6
)
 
$
—

 
$
(3.6
)
Direct sourcing initiative
$
—

 
$
0.1

 
$
—

 
$
0.3

Acquisition-related costs
$
—

 
$
0.8

 
$
—

 
$
3.3


(5)
Includes $0.4 million and $0.8 million of certain costs related to inventory acquired from Skip Hop in operating income between U.S. Wholesale, U.S. Retail, and International for the fiscal quarter and three fiscal quarters ended September 30, 2017, respectively.
(6)
Fiscal quarter and three fiscal quarters ended September 29, 2018 include approximately $3.5 million in costs associated with changes to the Company's business model in China, which includes inventory and severance charges.