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RESTRUCTURING AND OTHER INITIATIVES
12 Months Ended
Jan. 30, 2021
RESTRUCTURING AND OTHER INITIATIVES  
RESTRUCTURING AND OTHER INITIATIVES

5.   RESTRUCTURING AND OTHER INITIATIVES

COVID-19-Related Impairments and Expenses

The Company incurred costs associated with the COVID-19 pandemic and related impacts on the Company’s business, totaling $114.3 million ($115.5 million on an after-tax basis, or $3.10 per diluted share) during 2020.  These costs included non-cash impairment of property and equipment and lease right-of-use assets, incremental inventory markdowns, employee severance and other direct expenses specific to the impact of COVID-19 on the Company’s operations.  Of the $114.3 million in charges, $80.9 million is presented in restructuring and other special charges, net and $33.4 million is

reflected as cost of goods sold in the consolidated statements of earnings (loss).  Of the $80.9 million reflected as restructuring and other special charges, $63.7 million is reflected in the Brand Portfolio segment, $16.6 million is reflected in the Famous Footwear segment and $0.6 million is reflected within the Eliminations and Other category.  The $33.4 million reflected as cost of goods sold represents incremental inventory markdowns, of which $27.4 million is reflected in the Brand Portfolio segment and $6.0 million is reflected in the Famous Footwear segment.  There were no corresponding charges in 2019 or 2018.

Blowfish Mandatory Purchase Obligation

In 2018, the Company acquired a controlling interest in Blowfish Malibu, as further discussed in Note 2 to the consolidated financial statements.  The noncontrolling interest is subject to a mandatory purchase obligation after a three-year period based upon an earnings multiple formula as specified in the purchase agreement.  Accretion and remeasurement adjustments on the mandatory purchase obligation are being recorded as interest expense.  The fair value adjustments on the mandatory purchase obligation totaled $23.9 million ($17.8 million on an after-tax basis, or $0.48 per diluted share) in 2020 and $5.4 million ($4.0 million on an after-tax basis, or $0.10 per diluted share) in 2019.  Refer to further discussion regarding the mandatory purchase obligation in Note 15 to the consolidated financial statements.

Brand Portfolio – Business Exits

During 2020, the Company incurred costs of $16.4 million ($14.9 million on an after-tax basis, or $0.40 per diluted share) related to the decision to close all but a limited number of its Naturalizer retail stores and exit the Fergie brand.  Of these charges, which are all reflected within the Brand Portfolio segment, $12.4 million is presented as restructuring and other special charges and primarily represents non-cash impairment of property and right-of-use lease assets, incremental rent and lease termination costs, and severance costs.  An additional $4.0 million is presented as cost of goods sold and represents the incremental inventory markdowns required to reduce the value of inventory for these two brands to net realizable value.  As of January 30, 2021, reserves of $2.1 million were included in other accrued expenses on the consolidated balance sheet.

During 2019, the Company incurred costs of $3.5 million ($2.6 million on an after-tax basis, or $0.06 per diluted share) related to the decision to exit the Carlos brand and reposition the Via Spiga brand. Of these charges, which are all reflected within the Brand Portfolio segment, $3.0 million relates to incremental inventory markdowns required to reduce the value of inventory to net realizable value and is presented in cost of goods sold on the consolidated statements of earnings (loss), while the remaining $0.5 million, which is presented in restructuring and other special charges, is for severance and other related costs.

During 2018, the Company incurred costs of $2.4 million ($1.8 million on an after-tax basis, or $0.04 per diluted share) related to the decision to exit the Diane von Furstenberg and George Brown Bilt  brands. Of these charges, which are all reflected within the Brand Portfolio segment, $1.8 million primarily represents incremental inventory markdowns required to reduce the value of inventory to net realizable value and is presented in cost of goods sold on the consolidated statements of earnings (loss), while the remaining $0.6 million is for severance and other related costs and presented in restructuring and other special charges.

Vionic Acquisition and Integration-Related Costs

On October 18, 2018, the Company acquired all of the outstanding equity interests of Vionic Group LLC and Vionic International LLC, as further discussed in Note 2 to the consolidated financial statements.  The Company incurred acquisition and integration-related costs associated with the acquisition totaling $3.4 million ($2.6 million on an after-tax basis, $0.07 per diluted share), $1.9 million ($1.4 million on an after-tax basis, or $0.03 per diluted share) and $4.5 million ($3.3 million on an after-tax basis, or $0.08 per diluted share) during 2020, 2019 and 2018, respectively.  Of the $3.4 million in charges in 2020, which were presented as restructuring and other special charges in the consolidated statements of earnings (loss), $3.3 million is reflected within the Brand Portfolio segment and $0.1 million is reflected within the Eliminations and Other category, and represent non-cash impairment of assets, severance and other related costs.  Of the $1.9 million in charges in 2019 presented as restructuring and other special charges, which were primarily for severance and professional fees, $1.8 million is reflected within the Eliminations and Other category and $0.1 million is reflected in the Brand Portfolio segment.  All of the 2018 charges, which were primarily for professional fees, are reflected within the Eliminations and Other category.    

Expense Containment Initiatives

During the fourth quarter of 2019, the Company announced expense containment initiatives, including a Voluntary Early Retirement Program ("VERP") and other restructuring actions.  The total costs to implement these initiatives, which were recorded in the fourth quarter of 2019, were $15.0 million ($11.2 million on an after-tax basis, or $0.27 per diluted share).  These costs included employee-related costs for severance, including health care benefits and enhanced pension benefits.  Of the $15.0 million in charges, $12.3 million is presented as restructuring and other special charges, net and $2.7 million is reflected as other income, net in the consolidated statements of earnings (loss).  Of the $12.3 million reflected as restructuring and other special charges, $5.0 million is reflected in the Brand Portfolio segment, $3.8 million is reflected within the Eliminations and Other category and $3.5 million is reflected in the Famous Footwear segment.  The $2.7 million presented in other income within the Eliminations and Other category is a one-time pension settlement charge and special termination benefit costs associated with the VERP, as further discussed in Note 6 to the consolidated financial statements.  As of February 1, 2020, reserves of $8.0 million were included in other accrued expenses on the consolidated balance sheets, with no corresponding reserves as of January 30, 2021.

Integration and Reorganization of Men’s Brands

During 2018, the Company incurred integration and reorganization costs related to the 2016 acquisition of Allen Edmonds, primarily for professional fees and severance, totaling $5.8 million ($4.3 million on an after-tax basis, or $0.10 per diluted share), related to the men’s business.  These charges are presented in restructuring and other special charges in the consolidated statement of earnings (loss).  Of the $5.8 million of costs in 2018, $5.4 million is included in the Brand Portfolio segment and $0.4 million is reflected within the Eliminations and Other category.  

Logistics Transition

During the fourth quarter of 2018, the Company incurred costs of $4.5 million ($3.3 million on an after-tax basis, or $0.08 per diluted share) associated with the transition from a third-party operated warehouse in Chino, California to new company-operated Brand Portfolio warehouse facilities in California, as well as the transition of the Allen Edmonds distribution center in Port Washington, Wisconsin to the Company’s existing retail distribution center in Lebanon, Tennessee.  These charges are presented as restructuring and other special charges within the Brand Portfolio segment.

Retail Operations Restructuring

During 2018, the Company incurred costs, primarily for severance expense, of $0.4 million ($0.3 million on an after-tax basis, or $0.01 per diluted share), related to restructuring of its retail operations, which are presented in restructuring and other special charges in the consolidated statements of earnings (loss).  All of the costs for 2018 are presented within the Famous Footwear segment.