XML 39 R25.htm IDEA: XBRL DOCUMENT v3.23.1
Impairment testing of intangible assets with indefinite useful lives
12 Months Ended
Dec. 31, 2022
Disclosure of impairment loss and reversal of impairment loss [abstract]  
Impairment testing of intangible assets with indefinite useful lives
17. Impairment testing of intangible assets with indefinite useful lives
Brands and other intangible assets with indefinite useful lives as well as the goodwill arising on acquisition were subject to annual impairment testing. As described in Note 3.6 and 3.7, these assets are generally valued on the basis of the present value of forecast cash flows determined in the context of multi-year business plans drawn up each fiscal year.
The value in use discounted cash flow is based on a
10-year
cash flow model.
The Group uses a
10-year
rather than a
5-year
model as this accords with the Group’s long-term planning and business acquisition valuation methodology. The key judgments, estimates and assumptions used in the value in use discounted cash flow calculations are generally as follows:
 
 
 
In the first three years of the model, free cash flows are based on the Group’s strategic plan as approved by key management. The Group’s strategic plan is prepared per cash-generating unit and is based on external sources in respect of macro-economic assumptions, industry, inflation and foreign exchange rates, past experience and identified initiatives in terms of market share, revenue, variable and fixed cost, capital expenditure and working capital assumptions;
 
 
 
For the subsequent seven years of the model, data from the strategic plan is extrapolated generally using simplified assumptions such as macro-economic and industry assumptions, variable cost and fixed cost linked to inflation, as obtained from external sources;
 
 
 
Cash flows after the first
ten-year
period are extrapolated generally using expected annual long-term GDP growth rates, based on external sources, in order to calculate the terminal value, considering sensitivities on this metric; and
 
 
 
Projections are discounted at the unit’s
post-tax
weighted average cost of capital (“WACC”). Calculations are corroborated by valuation multiples, quoted share prices for publicly-traded subsidiaries or other available fair value indicators (i.e. recent market transactions from peers). The WACC was calculated for each CGU subject to impairment, considering the parameters specific to the geographical area, market risk premium and sovereign bond yield.
Although the Group believes that its judgments, assumptions and estimates are appropriate, actual results may differ from these estimates under different assumptions or market or macro-economic conditions.
 

The Group believes that all of its estimates are reasonable: they are consistent with the Group’s internal reporting and reflect management’s best estimates. However, inherent uncertainties exist that management may not be able to control. As of December 31, 2022, the intangible assets with indefinite useful lives that are the most significant in terms of their carrying amounts and the criteria used for impairment testing are as follows:
                                                 
    
Goodwill
    
Brands
    
Long-term

growth
rate (bps)
 
               
December 31, 2022
(Euro thousands)
  
Net carrying
amount
    
WACC

(bps)
    
Net carrying
amount
    
WACC

(bps)
    
Royalty

rate (bps)
 
                                           
Lanvin
     45,931        1,445        100,906        1,645        518        129  
Wolford
     11,701        1,434        37,856        1,634        250        237  
St. John
     11,691        1,436        30,271        1,636        344        248  
Sergio Rossi
     —          N.A.        3,301        2,001        125        143  
    
 
 
             
 
 
                            
Total
  
 
69,323
 
           
 
172,334
 
                          
    
 
 
             
 
 
                            
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
    
Goodwill
    
Brands
    
Long-term

growth
rate (bps)
 
               
December 31, 2021
(Euro thousands)
  
Net carrying
amount
    
WACC

(bps)
    
Net carrying
amount
    
WACC

(bps)
    
Royalty

rate (bps)
 
                                           
Lanvin
     45,931        1,370        100,906        1,570        518        97  
Wolford
     11,701        1,330        37,856        1,530        250        176  
St. John
     11,691        1,346        30,271        1,546        344        188  
Sergio Rossi
     —          N.A.        3,301        1,567        125        109  
    
 
 
             
 
 
                            
Total
  
 
69,323
 
           
 
172,334
 
                          
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The following table details the sensitivity of the impairment testing to reasonably possible changes in key assumptions:
 
 
  
At December 31, 2022 impairment loss due to
 
  
At December 31, 2021 impairment loss due to
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
Goodwill
 
  
Brand
 
  
Goodwill
 
  
Brand
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
(Euro

thousands)
  
WACC

+10 bps
 
  
Long-term

growth rate

- 10 bps
 
  
WACC

+10 bps
 
  
Long-term

growth rate

- 10 bps
 
  
Royalty
Rate

-10 bps
 
  
WACC

+10 bps
 
  
Long-term

growth rate

- 10 bps
 
  
WACC

+10 bps
 
  
Long-term

growth rate

- 10 bps
 
  
Royalty
Rate

-10 bps
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
Lanvin
     3,810       1,522        1,002        310        2,236        4,002        1,563        1,035        330        2,178  
Wolford
     5,904       2,507        491        172        2,053        5,356        2,888        476        219        2,004  
St. John
     1,928       782        330        110        1,118        1,331        642        245        87        924  
Sergio Rossi
     N.A.       N.A.        23        6        334        N.A.        N.A.        31        10        351  
 
Based on events foreseeable within reason at the date of this report, the Group considers that any changes impacting the key assumptions described above would not lead to the recognition of material impairment loss against other CGUs. The Group cannot predict whether an event that triggers impairment will occur, when it will occur or how it will affect the value of the asset reported.